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It's happened to most of us. We go out and purchase the latest and greatest sonar units, then struggle for a day or two installing them in place of the older units. Eventually, we visit our local boat dealer and pay to have the units installed. But it doesn't need to be that complicated.
Here, we illustrate the basic steps for installing new graphs in both the console and bow. A word of caution: If at any point you feel uncomfortable with the work, or encounter a problem you can't overcome, drop the project and take your boat to a qualified dealer. But for those adept at do-it-yourself projects, the process is fairly easy. Note: We've described only how to switch out your transducers and units.
You may need to rewire battery circuits, or purchase new power adapters—readily available from your sonar manufacturer. The first step is to decide where you want the new graphs. The most common arrangement is to place one on the bow dash, with a transducer attached to the trolling motor. The other graph is usually located adjacent to the steering console. Locate And Remove Existing Stern Transducer Tip If access to the mounting area is difficult, place a circle of cardboard over the mounting area. Apply epoxy inside the cardboard, then mount the transducer in the epoxy as described. After epoxy sets, cardboard can be cut out with a utility knife.
Just be sure transducer is secure and epoxy is set. In today's bass boats, most stern-mounted transducers are attached inside the hull-usually, beneath the rear hatch. First, empty the bilge completely, disconnect all batteries, then locate the rear transducer. You may need to remove a cover plate to actually reach the hull. Dry the area completely.
Your transducer is most likely glued directly to the hull with epoxy. In most cases, a few gentle taps with a small hammer can dislodge it. If not, don't risk damaging the hull. Instead, cut the wires and leave the original transducer in place. Within this same area, select a clean, level spot to install the new transducer. Prep the mounting area by roughing with fine sandpaper or a Scotch-Brite pad. Set the transducer in the selected area to make sure it fits, then trace an outline on the hull for reference.
Now, you're ready to glue the transducer to the hull. Epoxy creates a stable, efficient seal, and the transducer reads right through it, and the hull, provided there are no air pockets in the epoxy. First, mix your epoxy according to package instructions.
Next, create a small pool of epoxy, extending slightly beyond your outline tracing. Place the transducer in the epoxy, and rock back and forth to remove all the air pockets. Be sure the transducer is level and in the proper position, then apply steady pressure until the epoxy sets. Open the rear hatch (left) then locate the transducer (right). Run New Cable After the stern transducer is mounted, you'll need to run the new wires up to the console. Your wires most likely snake back somewhere beneath the gunwhale. Locate both the entry and exit points of your existing transducer cable, then remove wire-mounting hardware from console if necessary.
The challenge is to run the new wire along this same path. Use either an electrician's fish, or carpenter's tape, to run the wire path back to the transducer. Tape the new wires to your fish then pull them back through. Note: You may need to remove the previous transducer cable to ease the route back to stern. Remove any wire-exit hardware, then, with an electrician's fish or carpenter's tape (shown), run the wire path back to new transducer, affix wires with tape, then pull back through to console Install Your New Mounts Tip Check your battery setup. Today, most manufacturers recommend a dedicated circuit for electronics, and even include a simple power panel with positive/negative hookups.
Keeping electronics on their own, dedicated circuit minimizes interference. Unless your new unit is compatible, you'll most likely need to remove your old screen mount.
After removal, set the new screen mount on the dash and mark placements of mounting screws. Ensure new mounting holes are sufficient distance from the old ones, or cracking can occur. Set the screen mount aside, then drill pilot holes for mounting screws. Try to drill the largest pilot holes possible, making sure screws will still bite. Also, lightly round out the top of each pilot hole with a Phillips-head screwdriver—screw tapping can flake gel coat.
Place the screen mount over pilot holes and affix with screws provided by manufacturer. If no screws were provided, be sure to use stainless steel hardware, and take care not to overtighten—hulls and gelcoats can be damaged from excessive torque. Also replace wire-exit cap, if used previously. Using a special-made hose clamp and mount cushion, like this set from Lowrance, secure transducer to the trolling motor Next comes the crucial bow-mount graph. The goal is to affix the transducer to the base of the trolling motor.
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Installing Trolling Motor On Pontoon
To minimize chances of damaging the transducer puck or cable, some anglers choose to have a certified technician run their transducer cable through the trolling motor shaft. Another option is Minn Kota's new Universal Sonar, available on select Genesis, Maxxum, AutoPilot and PowerDrive trolling motors. If you have Universal Sonar capability, you can plug a new graph cable right into your trolling motor. However, most common is the practice of running your transducer cable along your trolling motor shaft.
First, remove the front bow panel that covers the wiring. Next, remove the existing transducer and wires from the trolling motor. Using a stainless steel transducer hose clamp (we chose one available from Lowrance), affix the transducer to the base of the trolling motor. Make sure the bottom of the transducer is level with the bottom of the trolling motor. Tighten clamp.
Run Your Wire. Use plastic cinch ties to run transducer cable up the motor shaft.
At the shaft's midpoint, leave a loop's worth of cable, allowing the motor freedom to rotate Use plastic cinch ties to clamp the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Place ties 6 to 8 inches apart. Pull clips tight, then cut ends flush—sharp, left-over plastic can slice fishing line like a knife. When you reach the collar, or midpoint, of the motor shaft, leave a loop's worth of cable. This allows the shaft to turn without damaging cable. When you reach the top of the motor, it's time for a decision.
You can either: 1) Continue running the wire down the foot-pedal cable, or 2) Branch off from the motor and run the wire along the motor bracket. We chose the second method. Some brackets allow access to the area beneath, in which case you can hide the cable. Otherwise, use small metal braces and screws to run wire along the outside of the bracket. Very important: Be sure to leave enough slack in the transducer cable, a loop's worth or two, to allow for raising and lowering the motor.
Neatness Counts. After running wire along motor bracket, create entry hole in bow panel. Secure wire to deck with clamp to avoid wire wear. Also, create an exit hole close to new mount Run the length of the bracket, then run the wire underneath the bow panel. You may need to cut a small hole to accommodate the wire.
Also, to prevent wire wear, secure the wire to the bow with a small bracket. Lastly, create an exit hole near the new mount for both the power and transducer cable. Tuck slack beneath and reattach the bow panel. The very last step is to attach your new screen bracket, just as you had done on the bow. Reattach your batteries, plug in your graphs and you're ready to fish! Reprinted with permission from Bass West Magazine.
Depending on the kind of transducer you have, whether it is an HDI transducer or a regular skimmer transducer, you can mount it for sure on a trolling motor. And it’s as easy as pie! There is the TMB-S transducer adapter, which is pretty straightforward – just screw the transducer into the bracket, and tighten the metal strip around the trolling motor, and you are all set: If you have the new HDI models, then you will need the TMB-S adapter, as well as a special mounting cup to fit the new HDI transducer: Then there is the DSI trolling motor transducer adapter, which is basically the same as above, except that it’s built for the slightly larger Lowrance DSI transducers: If you are a Humminbird guy, then this transducer mount is specially designed for XTM transducers.
My fish finder is the most important tool on my catfish boat. I rely on it more than anything else I use to be successful on the water catching fish and can’t imagine fishing without it. This is true of most successful anglers regardless of what they fish for. You can “use your gut” to locate and catch catfish but once you learn to read a fish finder correctly and use it to find and catch fish you’ve opened your fishing world to a whole new level of success. It will change your approach to fishing, where and how you fish and in the end the number of catfish you catch.
Unfortunately, many people jump in feet first purchasing a fish finder and have no idea what they’re buying, why they’re buying it, how to install it or if it has been installed correctly or most important, how to actually set it up correctly and read it. My electronics are such an important part of how I locate and catch fish yet I’ve not covered much information in the past on the topic so I’m working on providing more in depth information and details on sonar fish finders, which technologies to use for catching catfish, how to set them up correctly and how to understand what you’re seeing on the screen.
Fish Finder Installation Is The Foundation To Success Without proper installation you’re not going to get good clean images from your sonar fish finder and in fact you might even have the installation working against you keeping you from seeing fish. Many people install their sonar units themselves or rely on others to install them for them and do so without a clear understanding of how important it is or how to do this correctly. Here’s some tips for making sure your fish finder technology is installed correctly and setup for success so you get the best performance possible. Register Your Fish Finder After unboxing your sonar unit, before you do anything else head over to the manufacturers website, register the product and make sure they have a valid email address to contact you so you’ve activated your warranty with the manufacturer and given them a way to contact you with updates and important alerts. Here’s the link to create an account and register products.
Update Your Fishfinder Software The technology used in today’s sonar fish finders is very advanced and the units are computers. Like any other computer, smartphone or other electronics things change quickly and are constantly being updated to improve performance and compatibility with other products. Think of you’re computer or iPhone and the constant reminders you’re getting to update applications and software. Your marine electronics are no different and they’re devices that aren’t constantly connected to the internet with reminders popping up so you need to take matters in your own hands.
Before you work on any installation steps, check your software and make sure your software is up to date for any electronics you’ll be installing. It’s likely even though you have a new product you’ll need to perform updates. This is also something you’ll want to keep tabs on and make sure you maintain over the life of the product. I haven’t used any Lowrance products in quite some time but my My Humminbird account sends me an email every time a software update is released and let’s me know and there’s instructions provided with each update on how to perform the update on the sonar unit. The account allows me to login and see all of my products and important information about each one as well as current software versions for each. When installing software updates the process is painless for most units.
You download the software to a blank SD card, insert the SD card in the unit and power it up which then walks you through the installation. Before doing this I always make sure to download my settings and GPS coordinates to an SD card to save them and more importantly make sure the unit is restored to the factory default settings. Assuring you’re running the latest software version will provide the best performance, compatability and the cleanest and clearest images on the screen. Power Importance and Interference Make sure you’ve got good clean power to the sonar unit and that there’s a fuse between the power source and the unit. The fuse is pretty self explanatory but it amazes me how many people skip this step. You need a fuse between the power source the main unit to protect the unit. There’s a variety of ways to do this depending on the installation power source but the simplest way if you’re wiring direct to battery is a.
Next, make sure that you’ve got a good clean power source that will provide adequate power. After years of running various marine electronics on a wide variety of catfish boats I’ve learned there’s one thing that seems to always cause problems when it comes to power sources and that’s trolling motors. Interference is a common issue that can come from a variety or sources:. In the event you’re running a 12V trolling motor don’t run the fish finder on the same power source as the sonar unit.
Any trolling motor wiring that is near the power supply for the fish finder or the transducer wiring is often an issue. There’s much more to it than this but this is a good place to start. Interference will present in a number of ways. Long story short, if you power on your trolling motor and the image on the screen changes then you’ve got an issue to troubleshoot. There’s a variety of issues that can cause this but start by making sure you’ve got a good clean power source and then troubleshoot from there with the manufacturer or local dealer. Installing a ferrite ring is one of the first steps that is suggested for resolving interference and many trolling motors come with these in the packaging and they can also be purchased independently online. Installing is also a common troubleshooting step.
There’s also some. In addition, many of the newer sonar units require a lot of power. I ran into this issue with my Humminbird Onix 10 on my. I was getting trolling motor interference on my Humminbird 360 but also had an inadequate power supply to the Onix that was causing issues.
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Ultimately I had to install a dedicated battery for the and. Transducer Mounting Board Transducer installation is critical for all fish finders but it’s even more important when you’re using down imaging and side imaging sonar. It amazes me how many people don’t do this, even boat and marine electronics dealers that are self proclaimed “experts” on installations. If you’ve installed a transom mount transducer without a on your boat you’ve made a serious mistake.
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If you’ve paid someone to install electronics and they’ve installed a transom mount transducer without one of these you’ve worked worked with an incompetent installer. You should purchase a transducer mounting board, go back to the installer and whack them across the head with it for their incompetence. If you’re installing electronics, stop what you’re doing right now and order one of these. If you’ve electronics installed already and don’t have one of these order one right now and put it on your boat. You’ll also need a so you can install it. Seriously, I’ll wait for you to order the materials. Just do it It’s that important The transducer mounting board is installed on the transom of the boat with two screws and these are the last two holes you’ll ever need to drill in the transom of your boat.
Installing this will save you a ton of headaches over the life of the boat and also help with assuring you’ve got good clean images on the screen. If you ever have to move or replace a transducer, you’ll install directly to the poly mounting board for the life of the boat meaning no more holes in the transom. If you hit something and it rips the transducer off the back of the boat, it will pull from the trasducer mounting board and won’t rip holes or do damage to the boat. Keep reading the next tip for more explanation. Transducer Location and Angle Transducer installation location and angle are one of the most important parts (if not the most important) in assuring you’re getting the best performance from your fish finder.
Without proper location and angle you’re not going to get good images, arches and what you’re seeing on the screen won’t be accurate (or clear). Since I began running down imaging and side imaging I’ve never once had a transducer that I didn’t have to move from it’s original installation location. I moved the transducer on my ProCat 240 7 times before I finally got it right. Had I not installed the transducer mounting board I’d have 14 holes in the transom of the boat. There’s no “one way” to do this because every boat is different, so here’s what’s important when it comes to transducer location and angle based on the common transducers being used today that include 2D, down imaging and side imaging.
The transducer should be to be as close to the center line of the boat on the transom as possible (the engine) but not so close that it’s constantly getting interference from cavitation. The location on the transom needs to be such that it can see on both sides of the boat without interference from the outboard motor, floatation pods, shallow water anchors or anything else that would interfere. The transducer needs to be in contact with the water at all times and where the transducer sits in the water makes a big difference. Often moving a transducer up or down even as much as one half inch can have a big impact.
The transducer needs to sit as close to level as possible when the boat is in the water and often requires adjustment. Take into consideration that the back of the boat usually sits lower in the water than it does on the trailer.
In addition when you have a boat loaded with people it will sit differently in the water. Adjust the angle of the transducer, check it in the water and then adjust again as needed until it’s right. If you want the best performance from you sonar fish finder it’s best to make sure you do it right up front. If you’ve got an existing installation but aren’t getting the best images on the screen then go back and look at these common issues and you’ll likely improve the performance.
Once you’ve got the best performance, have your settings correct and know how to interpret the images on the screen you’ll find that your electronics are a critical tool to help you locate and catch. Hello Chad, I love all the good information that you give everybody, I also have a question about depth finders. I’ve recently bought two hummingbird depth finders.
859 DI and 899 side imaging and I want to mount both transducers on the transom of my boat. I have a 1985 Ranger 350 v, and it seems like no one around here mounts depth finders. I want to save a few bucks and mount them myself but have no idea the exact locations for both transducers to be mounted on the transom of my boat, like whether the side imaging transducer should be at the right or left of the DI transducer, you know little things like that, or should the SI transducer be mounted higher than the DI transducer even though I’m not running A high speed transducer. I am just trying to figure out and get The best reading out of my depth finders, is there any diagram that you know about or site where I can go to mount my transducers properly to the transom of my boat? Thank you for any help that you can give me.
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